PhotoSouth

And now for something completely different, a trip to the Post Office. Overnight we had arrived at Port Lockroy at Wiencke Island. This is an official English Post Office, affectionately known as the Penguin Post Office. It was originally established as a way to have an official British presence in the area, but now it is also a popular tourist attraction, even though it is quite a trip to get here. Several ships a week visit now and thousands of items, mainly postcards, are posted annually. There is also a tourist shop and the proceeds are used for the maintenance of the historic huts and bases in Antarctica. Anyone disembarking has to do so in smaller boats as there is no quay to tie up on. The mail is processed and stamped by hand, then shipped to the Falklands via passing ships, then onwards to England where it is added to the standard mail system. And yes, I sent a couple of cards. There are a number of penguins all around the buildings, plus some whale bones from the early days.

Back on board for lunch and a few hour trip to the Melchior Islands. On the way we had a couple of short glimpses of some Humpback whales. When we arrived at the islands the winds had picked up and the seas were choppy, but we enjoyed a slightly splashy cruise around and some spectacular close up views of huge blue and turquoise icebergs.

Regards

Walter

Today is looking to be a busy day with 3 landings planned. The first one was on Yalour Island, where once again we saw some great views and more penguins along with the smell that goes along with any penguin colony. This too is something that is almost indescribable, but I will try. The Penguin adults fish for Krill in the waters around the peninsula and islands. Krill is a small crustacean that is maybe up to 50mm long or so and feeds mainly on algae and other things it can filter out of the water. The adults feed the chicks by regurgitating the Krill and feeding it directly to them, with the chicks sticking their beaks as far as they can down their parent’s throats, even so there is some spillage occasionally. What goes in must come out and this process goes on for months. So there is digested krill scented poo everywhere, on the rock, the snow, the ice. Penguins do not discriminate in that regard. You can smell the colony before you can see it or hear it. It is all part of the nutrient cycle. Algae and plankton utlilise the nutrients in the poo, the algae feeds the krill, which is classified as a zooplankton, and so on. Coming back to the Zodiac there was a Giant Southern Petrel trying to round up one of the bunched together penguin chicks. Unsuccessfully this time.

First stop after lunch was Port Charcot on Booth Island, which was the site of the first intentional over-wintering in Antarctica. A short walk up a Snow slope took us to a cairn with a cross and a view. Then back onto the Zodiac for trip across the bay to Plenau Island. More penguins on the rocks near the landing site.

This time a longer walk up a snow covered ridge led to the best view so far. And at times a full feeling of the remoteness of where I was. As the walk was longer and steeper not everyone attempted it. At times it was just me. And the Silence. I didn’t lift my camera for minutes and just stood there and absorbed the sensation of being. Here. Snow clouds were drifting past in the distance over the icebergs to the west in the Southern Ocean. There were ever changing patches of sunlight illuminating parts of the seas and individual bergs. I did recover my senses and tried doing justice to what I saw with my camera. I do not think anyone could succeed fully on that front in that place and time with those views.

Regards

Walter

6.25 in the morning sailing through Crystal Sound the announcement came over that we were 10 minutes from the Antarctic Circle. Along with another 10 or so I was already on the bow of the ship with a champers at the ready. There was ice and snow on the decks form overnight. The countdown, then a blast on the ships horn, a cheer and finally I was there 66 degrees 33 minutes south. And onwards and southwards we kept on sailing. Our first stop was on Detaille Island where there is an old British Base hut that was abandoned in the 1960s as often it was impossible to access the base, even in summer. This base has since been restored by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust in order to preserve and record the site. It is s fascinating insight on how life was in the earlier days with numerous items just left behind. Everything from various canned food supplies, to pots, clothing, and all the equipment and tools.

Once again the weather was near perfect, so the decision was made to head further south in the search of Fast Ice. This is sea ice that is permanently frozen, even in summer. “Landfall” was to be made at the Fast Ice joining the Arrowsmith Peninsula to Liard Island. Technically this ice is part of the Continent as it is permanent ice. Slowly we cruised towards the mostly flat line of the Fast Ice on the horizon, with the occasional pressure ridge on it. There came a point where only a few boat lengths of open water separated our ship from the edge, but we did not start to slow or turn as I expected.

The realization of what was about happen dawned on me. We were about to literally ram mainland Antarctica. I was on the top deck 6 to take in the view and the bow was on deck 4. Rushing down a few flights of icy stairs and some heavy doors I made it to a point where I could see the bow of the ship at the point where it pierced the water. Or in this case the as it crushed the flat sea ice to come to gradual, yet sensational halt. In 15 seasons this was the first landing on fast ice. All credit due to Captain Sergey.

Just about everyone on board including ships crew and expedition staff took part in the 10 second Zodiac ride onto the ice, to then walk once more on the Continent while at the same time looking up at the bow of the ship that made this possible. All the time the ships propellers were gently turning to keep her on land. Once everyone had returned after a short cruise around on the Zodiacs, we simply reversed out and then moved on towards our next stop overnight.

Regards

Walter

Wake up call was a tad early at 5.30 even for a busy expedition day, but we needed to pack up tents and sleeping bags and be back on board to attempt a transit of the Lemaire Channel. This is beyond superlatives, something dreamed up by writers or film directors. The mountains rise up to 1000 meters either side of the channel in a dramatically steep fashion interspersed with glaciers that tumble their way into the icy water of the channel. The channel is maybe up to a kilometer wide and is often chocked with ice. But we were lucky with several bergs in the channel but our passage through not being obstructed, and made the second successful crossing this season. Sensational.

After lunch there were shore parties that landed at Peterman Island where we got to see Adelie penguins and our first Elephant seal behind the hut there. Energetic is not a word I would use to describe them, they did not move whilst I was there. Just big, grey, slug like blobs. There is also a memorial cross erected here for 3 British Antarctic expeditioners that perished in the vicinity in 1983.

Then it was back on board for the push to the Antarctic Circle.

Regards

Walter

After a quiet night we woke to clear skies and calm weather, a perfect day for a cruise down Gerlache Strait to Neko Harbour, our first planned landing on the continent itself. Not only did we get to land and see the by now obligatory Gentoo Penguins, but we were able to climb up the hillside to the resident glacier for a spectacular view of where the MS Expedition lay at anchor. The Zodiacs were again cruising around the bay providing close up views of our first (mini) icebergs and the occasional Crabeater seal lounging about on them. They barely blinked at us as we idled past.

Then anchors were again lifted and the cruise continued down the Errera channel to Couverville Island. Once again waterproofs were donned for our trip in the Zodiacs to shore. Our walk this time led as past, through and over rocky outcrops on which Gentoo penguins were in various stages of age and molting. The walk went up quite a steep snow slope to another outcrop for a view down the bay. Spectacular is a word that will be used a lot and I need to look up a thesaurus for alternatives. Even though we had climbed about 100 meters vertical up from shore there were still penguins up here. Going down presented a small problem for some, with several expeditioners going for a slide until the slope decreased near some penguins and friction was increased due to the presence of penguin poo.

The most exciting thing about the cruise back to the ship was the sighting of a Leopard seal on an iceberg. He was even kind enough to yawn and show of his massive jaws.

Next stop that day was Damoy Point on Wienecke Island. This was reached through the phenomenal Neumayer Channel, with mountains and glaciers on both sides. Dinner that day was a BBQ extravaganza on the rear deck of the ship behind the Polar Bear Bar. What a fabulous day, and then for the icing on the iceberg, conditions were deemed perfect for camping. We collected our sleeping bags and tents and once again were shuttled to shore around 10pm. A stunning sunset distracted us from the task of setting up our tents. After that a short walk up a nearby gentle hill to the local penguin colony and an evening view across the Neumayer Channel and our anchored ship with its lights ablaze. Apart from the penguins it was quiet, very quiet.

Curfew was at 11.30pm, with it still being light enough to easily read my watch. The purpose fo the curfew was to give the local wildlife a rest from us interlopers. I don’t anyone told the penguins that as they certainly didn’t give us a break from their calls or braying. But otherwise the night was warm and restfull in the tent.

Regards

Walter

Another day, another Antarctic Peninsula Island. After overnight cruising towards our next stop, briefly exposing us to some of the Drake swell, we eventually stopped next to Half Moon Island in a sheltered spot and landed in slightly calmer conditions than the day before. In the bay on end was an Argentinian base, which is more or less maintained only in order to keep a presence in the area. There was a matching Argentinian Naval vessel, a 2 masted sailboat, anchored in the protected bay.

On land there were the remnants of an old wooden smaller boat, plus of course the obligatory Gentoo penguins and fur seals. There was also supposed to be a lone Macaroni penguin, but I unfortunately did not spot him.

Then back on ship for lunch and a short cruise to Deception Island, an active volcano that last erupted in 1969. Weather was deteriorating with some snow and strong gusty winds, blowing at 30 to 45 knots and gusting to just over 60. But we were hoping to have some calmer conditions inside the island. Yes, inside. You actually sailed the ship through a gap in the side of the Caldera. There used to be a whaling station inside, and later on research stations, but the volcano put an end to that.

Conditions were a bit calmer inside, so the ship was anchored and a shore party sent out to check conditions. But unfortunately the ships anchor was not holding in the wind, even though 200 meters were dropped, which was a few ton of iron. As it was being dragged at about 1 knot with the anchor down, the shore party was cancelled, anchor pulled up and a spectacular exit made out of Deception Island towards our next goal, the Antarctic Peninsula itself.

Regards

Walter

Well that was interesting. The ship that followed us through the Beagle Channel from Ushaia to sail across the Drake Passage didn’t make it out of the Channel due to the storm. Our captain managed this by pretty much going as fast as was safely possible to get ahead of the storm by and then by first following a more westerly course. This meant that the large swell produced courtesy of the storm was almost coming at our ship from the stern once the course was changed to a more south easterly direction, and the stabilizers could be at their most effective. Plus we just about surf the 8 to 10 meter swell southwards.

The upshot of all this was that we got to King George Island about half a day earlier than scheduled and by rounding it on the North East end we got to some more protected waters to the leeward side. We got there so early actually that we were able to make landfall in the Zodiacs for the first time at Penguin Island. This is actually classed as an active volcano due to it still having fumaroles at times and emitting heat. There is very little snow. Now to the bit where we start to run out of superlatives.

After landing we walked carefully past the fur seals, who occasionally like to express their grumpy territorial nature. By turning right just before the Chinstrap penguins we were able to climb up to the highest point on the island on the rim of the volcano, and then able to walk right around the rim of the caldera. The ground was covered mostly by red and dark grey scoria with a few chunks of more solid rock, which I think was Rhyolite. There was a larger outcrop of this just inside the rim of the caldera. Once the top was reached a magnificent panorama was revealed. The shallow bays were full of stranded icebergs, which were a stark contrast to the blue of the sky, red of the ship and the red and black colours of the scoria we were walking on. The seals and penguins were just an added bonus.

Making landfall or just trying to get on or off a Zodiac in a reasonable swell from the ship can be a challenge. A gangway is attached to the side of the ship from one of the doorways or hatches leading to the mudroom (room for storing and drying all the wet gear and boots) at the rear of the ship. When the Zodiac pulls up to this the relative position between the ship and Zodiac can vary by over a meter within a few seconds as a wave lifts or drops the Zodiac. Timing is crucial as what you are about to step on may not be there anymore by the time you take your step if you get it wrong. There are helping hands usually.

Regards

Walter

Well we’ve been on our way for close to 20 hours now just skirting around a hurricane force storm in the Southern Ocean and riding along in 6 to 8 meter swells. Woohoo, never been on a rollercoaster before. From the cabin window can see alternatingly water then sky. Food here is good and, yes, I am still eating. There is actually sun out but the air temperature is well below 10 degrees not taking account any wind-chill.

We have done the lifeboat drill where we had a chance to sit inside the fully enclosed lifeboats that hold up to 51 people including supplies and they have a motor. Listened to our first lecture on Penguins, and I must admit I did catch up on some sleep then. Room was dark and warm, rocking of the ship, I was gone for a bit. Now we have just been called to attend a mandatory bio security briefing with our gear that we intend to take with us for any landings in the Zodiacs to get it vacuumed to prevent any foreign contamination.

Over and out. Internet is slow and expensive, had to drop the resolution of the photos and reduce numbers. Sorry.

Regards

Walter

All my bags are packed, I’m ready to go, I’m standing here beside the door
Cause I’m leaving on a boat, I know when I’ll be back again – Sorry about that, felt paraphrasing John Denver

Had the morning free for another random amble. Was heading for the Martial glacier north of Ushuaia in the hills when I got side tracked into following a marked track that headed east. Was wonderful just walking among the Lenga (Beech) forest, which was very reminiscent of walking in Tasmania, boggy tracks and all. Took a couple of shortcuts to get back to the road. No idea where I went really due to lack of a map.The dust on my boots is well and truly gone. Had to have a quick at the bottom station of the chairlift to the top, which unfortunately was not running. It would be about another 3 hour return trip to the glacier itself and I could see low cloud at the top. Along with the earlier rain I decided just to go up to the second station for a look and photos of course and head back to Ushuaia for the 3.30 departure time.

Ushuaia is interesting as it is surrounded by Mountains and itself is quite hilly. Buildings have therefore tended to go up instead of out and it is quite easy to walk around as it is quite compact. I have noticed there are actually cleaners that go around with little trolleys, broom and shovel to clean up the streets in the morning. Unfortunately the graffiti on the walls in certain areas is harder to deal with I guess. This surprised me seeing this here. Another surprise is the music I hear being played here. Along with some traditional Spanish influenced and Tango style music (we are in Argentina, land of the Tango), you here lots of Abba, Pink Floyd, Dylan etc.

Anyway, time to get a wriggle on, we will see how future posts go due to the uncertainty of internet access and quality.

Regards

Walter

A morning walk in Calafate to take photos of flamingos was not my aim when I came to Argentina, but they are here and so I was left with no choice. I walked down the hill from Hosteria La Esteppa, which by the way has beds more comfortable than my own at home, to the Lago Argentino where I saw a handful of the pink, long legged birds.

I crossed the road and suddenly found myself accompanied by the 2 dogs form the Hosteria. I love dogs, but while I am trying to take pictures of birds? Maybe not. One of the dogs was a black Newfoundland. Never really did see his eyes. He wasn’t as fond of water as his mate was who looked a bit like a Kelpie Border Collie sort of. They accompanied me for my entire 3 km walk and probably would have followed me into town. I did not do this because of them and the resident strays. The black fellow was good company and stuck by my side mostly, whereas the other one kept on looking for stuff weather on land or in water. The only benefit of that and the shallow water was I got a picture of some flying Flamingos.

Then it was time to catch a taxi and a plane to head south a few more degrees to Ushuaia where I was greeted by a typical summer’s day of some cloud and a balmy 15 degrees.

Regards

Walter