Tag: Japan

Time to leave the snow country and its monkeys to head towards Mount Fuji, or Fuji San as it is called here, along with its tourists. I know which is better behaved,

At Oshino Hakkai on a still day it is possible to see a perfect reflection of Fuji San in the lake. Getting to the front of the jostling crowds to do so is just about as hard as getting that still day. I chose not to. By taking a small walk along the shoreline I once again was by myself and could decide where and how to try to do Fuji San justice with a photo.

At 3776 meters, it is the country’s highest mountain, and its sacred symbol with numerous shrines in the vicinity. It also is a volcano that last erupted in 1707. And no, it is not extinct, with occasional rumblings that are said to come from magma reservoirs deep underneath it.

And being sacred and tall makes it a popular hike, with up to 4000 climbers a day attempting the 10 to 12 hour trip. And that is on just one of the 4 tracks. A handful of hikers make the supreme sacrifice each year to try to gain the glory of the summit. Like all taller mountains, it may choose not to let you up, or back down.

Just a little bit north of the tourist laden Oshino Hakkai is the Oshino Sengen shrine with its centuries old cypress trees. Once again, a haven of peace and solitude.

If I needed to make a choice, I know which it would be.

A struggle to rise and ready myself, camera and clothing for the day before a 7am breakfast. Meanwhile the dedicated bus driver shovels out the bus. It’s good to be the king.

The word breakfast understates the culinary experience that is meant to strengthen us for today’s struggle to obtain the perfect photo while battling hordes of unsympathetic tourists.

A short drive saw us at the start of the monkey walk. 1.6km of a snowy track through a winter landscape of cypress, oak, maple and more. When I say snow, it’s not the light Australian dusting, but metres of dry pillowy stuff loading down branches of the trees. In Japanese gardens branches are often supported to prevent breaks.

The hot springs that the macaques frequent to luxuriate in have been enhanced for the benefit of both monkey and human. They are also attracted with small amounts of grain or sweet potato, but otherwise forage is their normal diet of roots, bark and greens. As a result the snow monkeys are very comfortable around humans, treating them with the same disdain as a cat would.

They certainly seem to enjoy their warm soaks, achieving a Zen calm as they relax.

Back in Yudanaka a wander through the urban, snowclad streets revealed new views around every corner. The Buddhist shrine to Kannon, the deity of Mercy on top of a hill approached by 112 stone steps was one of these. Amongst other things apart from the 25 meter tall bronze statue are a large bell to ring for peace, and an eternal flame lit in Hiroshima.

Lest we forget the innocent or humanity.

After a comfortable night’s sleep in an uncomfortable room, breakfast was followed by a gathering of belongings and their people onto what can only be described as a cute little bus. Maybe it was the fringes on the curtain valence that gave the finishing touch to the bright, cheerful colour scheme of the seating.

We had glimpses of Fuji San through the canyons of the Tokyo landscape. And later other snow capped hills could be seen. The bus made an interesting contrast to the stark winter landscape, and it’s trees bereft of leaves.

A few hours later we arrived in Nagano for a traditional Japanese lunch featuring tempura, a sashimi of fish and una, soba, and all the trimmings. Less fresh seafood here in the middle of the island. Then back to the bus and on to Matsumotu castle.

Authentic and original, one of only 5 in Japan designated as a national treasure. And also the oldest originally fortified  in the late 15th century, with the 5 level castle tower built in 1594.

Let me say this, it has steep, narrow stairs going up it’s internal 6 levels. Yes it has not levels on the inside than the outside. Let me also say the timber work in it is monumental in scale and extraordinary in quality.

It also contains a very nice collection of various guns, dating back to the 16th century. Once the Japanese craftsmen had a couple of western guns, they were able to replicate them within a year. These ended up having the same effect on the samurai, as they did on the knights in Europe. But those warrior castes somehow seem more classy than the average general sending his troops to fight somebody else’s battle.

Anyway, onwards and upwards to Yudanaka. And the snow begins.

And what I can only assume is an authentic Ryokan experience once we arrived at our lodging for the next 2 nights. A futon on a tatami mat floor. 6 star service in a 3 star hotel.

And the food. A banquet fit for a shogun. And a bunch of westerners faking it, dressed in yukata robes and complaining about low chairs. It could be worse. But it could not be much better than the Kobe beef shabu shabu. A dyi hotpot with the beef almost dissolving into a what ends up a supremely tasty broth.

I will leave it at that. I only wish taste bud had memories.

My luggage has left me. I am putting myself in the hands of Japanese efficiency and having it forwarded to my next hotel. This leaves me free to experience one of the other Japanese marvels – the Shinkansen. The first line was completed by 1964 in time for the Tokyo Olympics, and many parts of the world are still playing catchup, hampered by bureaucracy and politics. Nothing like a political will being hampered by a short term wish for re-election. Never mind the future, or even common sense.

It takes an effort of train navigation to be rewarded by it’s efficiencies, especially for a foreigner not versed in the multiple Japanese alphabets. But it is worth it. Travelling at speeds up to 300km/h I was able to visit Odawara and it’s reconstructed samurai castle, originally established in the early 15th century. If you really wanted to play the tourist part you could dress up as a samurai or ninja – at a price. Or you could stick with the reality and marvel of the thick stone ramparts and embedded gates made out of century old trees.

On the way back to the station for the return journey there was a light dusting of snow as I walked by the multitude of smaller eateries selling various seafood prepared in various ways. A reminder that Odawara is a seaside town with nearby mountains and their ski resorts on the other side.

Back in Tokyo I checked in to my new hotel in readiness for extending my advice beyond the city with a small group of hopefully like minded photographers.