Fuji San

Time to leave the snow country and its monkeys to head towards Mount Fuji, or Fuji San as it is called here, along with its tourists. I know which is better behaved,

At Oshino Hakkai on a still day it is possible to see a perfect reflection of Fuji San in the lake. Getting to the front of the jostling crowds to do so is just about as hard as getting that still day. I chose not to. By taking a small walk along the shoreline I once again was by myself and could decide where and how to try to do Fuji San justice with a photo.

At 3776 meters, it is the country’s highest mountain, and its sacred symbol with numerous shrines in the vicinity. It also is a volcano that last erupted in 1707. And no, it is not extinct, with occasional rumblings that are said to come from magma reservoirs deep underneath it.

And being sacred and tall makes it a popular hike, with up to 4000 climbers a day attempting the 10 to 12 hour trip. And that is on just one of the 4 tracks. A handful of hikers make the supreme sacrifice each year to try to gain the glory of the summit. Like all taller mountains, it may choose not to let you up, or back down.

Just a little bit north of the tourist laden Oshino Hakkai is the Oshino Sengen shrine with its centuries old cypress trees. Once again, a haven of peace and solitude.

If I needed to make a choice, I know which it would be.

Day of the monkeys

A struggle to rise and ready myself, camera and clothing for the day before a 7am breakfast. Meanwhile the dedicated bus driver shovels out the bus. It’s good to be the king.

The word breakfast understates the culinary experience that is meant to strengthen us for today’s struggle to obtain the perfect photo while battling hordes of unsympathetic tourists.

A short drive saw us at the start of the monkey walk. 1.6km of a snowy track through a winter landscape of cypress, oak, maple and more. When I say snow, it’s not the light Australian dusting, but metres of dry pillowy stuff loading down branches of the trees. In Japanese gardens branches are often supported to prevent breaks.

The hot springs that the macaques frequent to luxuriate in have been enhanced for the benefit of both monkey and human. They are also attracted with small amounts of grain or sweet potato, but otherwise forage is their normal diet of roots, bark and greens. As a result the snow monkeys are very comfortable around humans, treating them with the same disdain as a cat would.

They certainly seem to enjoy their warm soaks, achieving a Zen calm as they relax.

Back in Yudanaka a wander through the urban, snowclad streets revealed new views around every corner. The Buddhist shrine to Kannon, the deity of Mercy on top of a hill approached by 112 stone steps was one of these. Amongst other things apart from the 25 meter tall bronze statue are a large bell to ring for peace, and an eternal flame lit in Hiroshima.

Lest we forget the innocent or humanity.

To Nagano – Matsumotu & Yudanaka

After a comfortable night’s sleep in an uncomfortable room, breakfast was followed by a gathering of belongings and their people onto what can only be described as a cute little bus. Maybe it was the fringes on the curtain valence that gave the finishing touch to the bright, cheerful colour scheme of the seating.

We had glimpses of Fuji San through the canyons of the Tokyo landscape. And later other snow capped hills could be seen. The bus made an interesting contrast to the stark winter landscape, and it’s trees bereft of leaves.

A few hours later we arrived in Nagano for a traditional Japanese lunch featuring tempura, a sashimi of fish and una, soba, and all the trimmings. Less fresh seafood here in the middle of the island. Then back to the bus and on to Matsumotu castle.

Authentic and original, one of only 5 in Japan designated as a national treasure. And also the oldest originally fortified  in the late 15th century, with the 5 level castle tower built in 1594.

Let me say this, it has steep, narrow stairs going up it’s internal 6 levels. Yes it has not levels on the inside than the outside. Let me also say the timber work in it is monumental in scale and extraordinary in quality.

It also contains a very nice collection of various guns, dating back to the 16th century. Once the Japanese craftsmen had a couple of western guns, they were able to replicate them within a year. These ended up having the same effect on the samurai, as they did on the knights in Europe. But those warrior castes somehow seem more classy than the average general sending his troops to fight somebody else’s battle.

Anyway, onwards and upwards to Yudanaka. And the snow begins.

And what I can only assume is an authentic Ryokan experience once we arrived at our lodging for the next 2 nights. A futon on a tatami mat floor. 6 star service in a 3 star hotel.

And the food. A banquet fit for a shogun. And a bunch of westerners faking it, dressed in yukata robes and complaining about low chairs. It could be worse. But it could not be much better than the Kobe beef shabu shabu. A dyi hotpot with the beef almost dissolving into a what ends up a supremely tasty broth.

I will leave it at that. I only wish taste bud had memories.

Odawara and on

My luggage has left me. I am putting myself in the hands of Japanese efficiency and having it forwarded to my next hotel. This leaves me free to experience one of the other Japanese marvels – the Shinkansen. The first line was completed by 1964 in time for the Tokyo Olympics, and many parts of the world are still playing catchup, hampered by bureaucracy and politics. Nothing like a political will being hampered by a short term wish for re-election. Never mind the future, or even common sense.

It takes an effort of train navigation to be rewarded by it’s efficiencies, especially for a foreigner not versed in the multiple Japanese alphabets. But it is worth it. Travelling at speeds up to 300km/h I was able to visit Odawara and it’s reconstructed samurai castle, originally established in the early 15th century. If you really wanted to play the tourist part you could dress up as a samurai or ninja – at a price. Or you could stick with the reality and marvel of the thick stone ramparts and embedded gates made out of century old trees.

On the way back to the station for the return journey there was a light dusting of snow as I walked by the multitude of smaller eateries selling various seafood prepared in various ways. A reminder that Odawara is a seaside town with nearby mountains and their ski resorts on the other side.

Back in Tokyo I checked in to my new hotel in readiness for extending my advice beyond the city with a small group of hopefully like minded photographers.

Kamakura

Dawn breaks. Look, the sun shine right into my eyes. Something in the deep recesses of my mind tells me this is not the comfort of my bed. But comfort it is.

Coffee. To try to get the fuzz out of my brain. I found the Cafe downstairs, with their far too short chairs, Japanese style elevator music and western food. And a coffee machine that makes a fair semblance of a latte. But that must leave the safety of the hotel, and it’s forgiveness of my social faux pas.  Time to navigate the outside world.

Japan has the art of public train transport down to a fine art. Greater Tokyo with its population of 37.2 million people has trains, subways, monorails and the famous shinkansen or bullet train to us uneducated Westerners. Clean, efficient, on time, and no graffiti. Imagine that. No really. Is it possible maybe respect for the assets of society is part of education?

But I digress, again.

After arriving in Kamakura, about half an hour south of Yokohama, a shortish walk saw me arriving at the Kotoku-in  Temple and it’s large bronze Buddha. 13.35 meters high and cast around 1252 it has survived tsunamis, earthquakes and humans, of which they were plenty. Insta-posing and selfie sticks, never mind contemplation or enlightenment. Time to head for the hills, literally.

There is a walk along the undulating spine of the hills, which can lead you to the Kita-Kamakura station, and from there the train again.

It’s a little track and I was able to count the people on it on one hand. Peace, solitude and all that that goes with it on the fringes of the largest city in the world. Let us live in hope the tourists don’t discover this, and it’s rewards to the soul.

At the end of the day I achieved moments of peace with glimpses of Japanese tradition through the trees. But no enlightenment. Maybe a selfie stick – but no.

Vienna, City of Food, Museums, Horses and Catacombs

Warning, food may yet again be featured in this post, along with symbols of civilisation of various descriptions. Why else would you come to Vienna?

We’ll start the day with Kaiserschmarren, a sort of scrambled pancake. And coffee of course. Then the first of the museums, the Hofjagd und Rüstkammer museum, basically the Hapsburg armoury. Exquisitely made armour at that for the elite, and strangely enough, their kids also, little kids at that. At the rates kids grow, the armours would not have fitted them long. Ironically the armoury also included early muskets and rifles, which spelled the end of knights in armour in the 1600s.

Now to a tour of the Spanish Riding School. This was founded back in 1572 by Archduke Karl II, another Hapsburg ruler. He had travelled widely in his youth in Italy and Spain, and brought back a whole bunch of horses from Spain. As traveling horses overland continuously was not practical, a stud was established in Lipica in 1580, hence Lipizzaners. This stud was moved to Piber in 1920 after the first world war. There was also a frantic rescue operation of these horses during World War II, watch the film.

But being summer most of the horses were on holidays, apart from a handful. I guess the tourists do want to see something alive resembling a handsome stallion like horse. I know I did.

Time for a revitalizing sausage from a stand. I had a decidedly non-Viennese, but still tasty, Curry wurst. But the beer was still Austrian.

Next back to the Hapsburgs and some of the shiny things they accumulated in centuries of ruling this area of Europe. No doubt the armoury may have assisted in this. The crown jewels, crosses, a carved 2,860 carat emerald ointment container, and numerous bits of coronation wear. Just what any emperor would need, while alive anyway.

Just up the road and a couple of blocks over is the Capuchin Crypt, home to the mortal remains of the Hapsburgs since 1633. As of 2023 149 Habsburgs have been laid to rest there, most in metal sarcophagi, with the latest in 2011. The Order of Friars Minor Capuchin is a religious order of Franciscan friars, and act as guardians.

Time to eat again. Apparently, a proper Wiener schnitzel is only made from veal. Anything else is just a Schnitzel made from whatever it is made from. Who am I to argue.

A Singapore river cruise and more food

Last day and I managed to get a late 2pm checkout, so almost another full day of exploration.

Did the tourist thing. A river cruise on one of the many “electric” Bumboats. Not what you think, but an Anglicised version of the dutch word Boom for tree plus english Boat. So the word tree boat that was canoe now became a small boat or ferry. But the once diesel powered motors are now mostly replaced by nice quiet electric ones.

Then onto more important matters. Food. Real food. At a non tourist hawker center tucked away next to shiny hotels and busy roads. How something the size of a small 2 story shopping center can be just tucked away and hidden is a good question. But I found it. A few Michelin Bibs in there and I managed to get the best Chicken potato curry puff with the crispiest pastry (no pictures, I ate it) and the best wobbly with crunchy crust egg custard tart I’ve ever sunk my teeth into. No air conditioning here.

Back to the hotel to dry and cool off before getting a taxi back to the airport. Singapore, an eclectic mix of the old and the new, the east and the west.

Singapore Bunkers and Slings

Last full day in Singapore.

First thing after breakfast time to join a guided tour of the bunker that was the Malaya High Command Center of the Allied Forces, and where the decision to surrender Singapore was made 15 February 1942 to the Japanese forces after their 70 day storm down the Malay peninsula.

This brought over 3 years of hardship to the 80,000 soldiers captured and many more civilians in occupied Singapore until the end of the war brought on  by the dropping of the Atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

Anyway, enough of death and statistics. The parklands and the ex military command center are a green oasis in the City. And hopefully history will not repeat.

On to the Colonial past and pleasures. The Singapore sling is a concoction of gin, curacao, grenadine, pineapple juice, cherry liquor and so on. Best consumed where it was supposed to have been  invented, the Long Bar at the historic Raffles Hotel. Probably much better on a hot day than an air conditioned bar with peanut shells all over the floor. Yes, that’s right, peanut shells.

Apparently the custom is to throw the shells from the peanuts supplied in small hessian bags on the ground. If you are so inconsiderate as to pile the shells in a neat pile on the bar, the staff will clean up after you once you leave by brushing them unceremoniously to the ground. Anyway, it had to be done. The Sling that is, not the nuts.

On the way back to the hotel I passed preparations for the bicentennial of modern Singapore. This was founded in 1819 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, even though he was not the first to civilise the island. Nor did he build the hotel or parks or streets that are named after him.

Singapore temples and more hawker food

A slightly more casual start today as it was going to be an easier day, with only 2 sights to be seen. The Buddha Tooth Temple and the Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice hawker stand in the Maxwell food center.

Both of these are on the edge of Chinatown. Also within blocks of the Buddhist temple are a mosque and a Hindu temple I discovered, but my interests lay with the Buddhist temple and museum full of artifacts spread over its 5 levels, the most significant being the Buddha Tooth fragment discovered in a collapsed Stupa in Myanmar in 1980.

The construction started in 2005 and the temple opened in 2007. Most of it is accessible to the public, but due deference and respect needs to be paid with headwear to be removed in the entire building. In the section where the Buddha Tooth is displayed shoes also need to be removed. I spend a good hour or so wandering the floors

Across the road in the Hawker center it is a different story, although queues were orderly when there were queues. Staff at the 2 Michelin star Waku Ghin had recommended this venue as number 1 to sample the Singapore national dish of Hainanese Chicken Rice. It turns out that Anthony Bourdain had spouted superlatives about Tian Tian also. And Mr. Bourdain was right. The rice was flavourful and fragrant enough to be eaten by itself.

To explain the rice is cooked a bit like an Italian Risotto using chicken stock, and I am sure 11 other secret herbs and spices. And the Chili sauce accompanying the meal was tangy as well as spicy. My only point of difference to the majority of consumers is, I prefered the roasted chicken to the standard steamed chicken. It was worth the walk. And the wait in the Queue. And I hate queuing.

On the way back zig zagging through Chinatown I finally got caught in a tropical Singapore downpour, which trapped me in one of the shops. And yes, I bought something. I needed that little extra horse statue anyway.

Singapore Gardens and Food

French Toast. They had French Toast. One of my favourite breakfast foods was right there at the hotel buffet. You can pretend it is healthy with fruit and yoghurt on it.

Gardens by the Bay next to the Marina Bay Sands hotel planned for today. So another pleasant 2 or 3km walk through the steamy Singapore morning to get bayside. When you get there and all  the architecture comes into view you can see some of the attraction it holds to tourists.

The 3 towers of the hotel look like they have a luxury ocean liner parked on top of them. Then you have the futuristic mushroom supertrees that act as vents and power sources for the Cloud Forest and Flower Domes. The Cloud Forest I found well worth a visit with its layered plant exhibits and a 35 meter indoor waterfall. Quite humid but at least cool inside this huge structure. Outside it gets so hot at times that the cactus display has it’s own shade and cooling fans.

I gave all this a good looking over after a light lunch of real satay and beer from one of Singapore’s famous hawker style food outlets. After a few hours I retreated to the shopping mall next to the Marina Bay Sands hotel. No Kmarts or Walmarts here. And in contrast to the hotel it wa build into the ground by 3 levels. I needed to cool off prior to my special meal I had booked at the 2 Michelin Star Waku Ghin. It seemed I was the only guest for the early sitting. The Wagyu beef with yuzu soy and fresh wasabi was the winner for me.

During desert I got to watch the Marina Bay light show. Then to Supertree light show was a short walk away. It looked like an immobile fireworks on the 25 to 50 meter tall structures, a fitting finale prior to getting a taxi back to my temporary home..